History of Moroccan Wine

Roman arch at Volubilis
The Roman arch at Volubilis, near Meknes · via Wikimedia Commons

Morocco’s relationship with wine stretches back more than two thousand years, through cycles of flourishing, near-disappearance, and revival. Understanding that history explains a great deal about why the modern industry looks the way it does — concentrated, export-minded, and shaped by French winemaking traditions.

Roman wine press at Volubilis
A Roman-era wine press at Volubilis — wine here is ancient · via Wikimedia Commons

Ancient roots

Vine-growing in what is now Morocco is generally traced to the Phoenicians, who established trading posts along the North African coast, and it became well established under Roman rule — the mosaics and ruins of Volubilis, near Meknès, sit in what is still wine country today. Winemaking receded after the arrival of Islam in the 7th century, as religious prohibitions on alcohol reshaped agriculture, and for many centuries table grapes and raisins, rather than wine, were the norm.

The French colonial era

Large-scale winemaking returned with French colonisation. During the French protectorate, established in 1912, settlers planted extensive vineyards, much as they did in neighbouring Algeria, and by mid-century Morocco was a significant wine exporter. A great deal of that wine left in bulk, particularly to France, where it was used to add colour and body to French blends rather than sold under its own name. By the 1950s the country had tens of thousands of hectares under vine — far more than today.

Decline after independence

Morocco gained independence in 1956, and the wine industry contracted sharply over the following years. Many French settlers left, vineyards were abandoned or pulled up, and the export market that had propped up production — above all French demand — fell away as trade arrangements changed and European rules on imports tightened. Across the 1960s, 70s and 80s a large share of the colonial-era vineyard was lost, and the industry became a shadow of its former self.

The modern revival

The revival that shaped today’s industry began in the 1990s. Under King Hassan II, the state encouraged foreign investment and expertise, offering long-term leases on state-held vineyard land — often to French wine companies — through a state agricultural body commonly referred to as SODEA. This brought in capital, modern equipment and international know-how. French groups such as Castel took on large holdings, entrepreneurs like Brahim Zniber built major domestic producers, and quality-focused appellations were introduced, including the Coteaux de l’Atlas AOC.

A new focus on quality

Since the 2000s the story has shifted from volume toward ambition. New estates planted at altitude, the creation of Morocco’s first “Château” (Château Roslane), and high-profile collaborations — such as the late Rhône vigneron Alain Graillot’s Syrah project with Ouled Thaleb — have shown what the country can do. The best wines increasingly aim to express a sense of place rather than simply fill bottles.

What makes Moroccan wine distinct

Several things set Moroccan wine apart. Vineyards benefit from a mix of Mediterranean and Atlantic influences and, in the Atlas foothills, considerable altitude, which brings cool nights and helps grapes keep their freshness in a hot climate. Rhône varieties — Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault — suit these conditions and form the backbone of many wines. Morocco is also known for vin gris, a very pale, rosé-style wine that has become something of a national signature.

Because Morocco is a majority-Muslim country, much of its wine is made with export and tourism in mind, though a real domestic market exists. In global terms it remains a relatively small producer — making on the order of tens of millions of bottles a year by common estimates, and ranking somewhere in the mid-thirties among wine-producing nations. Exact figures for production, vineyard area and market share vary between sources and are best treated as approximate.

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